Bespoke - it is not just high-quality men's clothing, but some kind of visit card that tells about the taste of the owner, a significant attribute of his status.
History of Bespoke
Bespoke Tailoring, as we know it today, is the accumulation of many centuries of dedication to the craft of sewing, stitching, cutting and imitating the human form in fabrics. Bespoke tailoring developed slowly but steadily throughout Europe between the 12th and 14th Century. Before the birth of tailoring, clothes were seen purely as functional objects, to cover the body and protect it from the elements. As the Renaissance transformed the world of arts and culture, tailoring became a way to accentuate the human form and contributed to what is widely considered to have been the ‘rebirth of humanism’. Medieval uniforms, which had typically been made from a single piece of cloth, were now ‘tailored’ so that they were tighter and shorter in an attempt to show off the contours of the human body. Tailors changed the way people perceived clothes, they were no longer viewed merely as ‘practical necessities’, but as a form of expression and objects of desire. Tailoring skills became increasingly sought after and created the market of tailoring as we know it today.
It was also the beginning of what we now refer to as fashion.
Whilst the French reviled in overly flamboyant, decorative silks and pastel satins, which were derived from the French courts, the English were taking a far more practical approach.
In fact, by the 19th Century, glossy black coats and iconic English stovepipe hats and umbrellas were standard
elements of mainstream English fashion. The silhouette of the modern English gentleman was born.
Savile Row, in Mayfair, London, was built between 1731 and 1735 and was named after Lady Dorothy Savile, the wife of the 3rd Earl of Burlington. It was originally the used to house British military officers and their wives, however, as British gentry became increasingly concerned with their appearance, Beau Brummell (the epitome of the well-dressed man) patronised the tailors of Savile Row and it started to be referred to as the “golden mile of tailoring”. In fact, it was Savile Row tailors that coined the term; ”bespoke”, when they described cloth as being “spoken for” by an individual customer. Modern-day bespoke tailoring still utilises traditional techniques and, despite advancements in technology, is still seen as a highly-skilled art form as opposed to an exact science. In a world where mass-production and ready-made clothing dominates the world of fashion, the tailor’s role has become increasingly essential.
Manufacturing of a suit from start to finish by a single craftsman. He takes measurements from the client,
advises on the selection of fabrics and the model, makes the patterns, assembles and sew the suit,
carries out the fitting and changes in the process of manufacturing. He is responsible for the final result.
Suit, jacket, vest, pants, shirt or coat - Bespoke - will differ a great fit, excellent appearance and unique sense of comfort and pleasure of wearing.
Often a pocket square put in a breast pocket of a
jacket with exquisite casualness, fundamentally changes the concept of the whole look!
The name to this tie was given by the famous English racecourse, located in the small town of Ascot, where since the beginning of the 18th century began to take place the Royal racing. Among of other things, the Royal racing always have a particular code. In Europe Ascot tie was widespread in the late 19th century, when the frock coats and morning suits became fashion.
In the first decades of the 20th century it became part of the casual wear and even sportswear. The Duke of Windsor, after whom is named the same name node, loved to play golf in such tie.
Later, he was popular among British youth since the mid-1960s until the mid-1970s, in the era "Psychedelic movement." In particular, it carried many rock musicians of those years.
Currently Ascot tie is worn both complementing the casual look, and as a indispensable attribute of male ceremonial and wedding suits.
In fact, it is the "twin" of Ascot tie, but it came from France. The tie was originally a chest insert or a starched shirt front. To this day, the plastron plays an important role among the ties, especially in the solemn and elegant men's evening dress. Lush plastron is usually worn under the vest, and often of the same fabric. Furthermore, as Ascot (in its solemn variant) the plastron is worn stapled with a pearl head pin. Most often it is made of heavy silver-gray silk duchesse. Riders usually wear plastron of white pique. It's safe to say that this is one of the oldest kinds of men's ties, has come down to us virtually unchanged.
In the early 19th century, it was a neck scarf, the ends of which were tied in form of butterfly (in French "a la papillon"). Its modern look bowtie gained in 1904 at the time of opera J.Puccini "Madame Butterfly", when all the musicians of the orchestra had a bow knotted tie.
Most ties are made of silk of different weaving. Silk tie - the most traditional and universal, but not the only kind. They make ties of wool challis, tweed, linen and cotton. It should be be kept in mind it's seasonal fabrics: wool ties should be reserved for the autumn and winter, and in summer you can show off tie of seersucker. Remember that a good tie adds not only colour but also the texture to the look.
It is classic British ties with printed pattern, usually inflicted with natural dyes on silk treated with gum arabic. Due to such technology colors are restrained, and soft and rough texture. Pattern of ancient-madder-ties - usually "cucumbers" or traditional geometric prints that can be imposed as a rule manually. Ancient madder goes well with tweed jacket and flannels.
|REPP STRIPED TIE
The stripes on this tie are arranged in accordance with a woven fabric - at an angle of 45 degrees. In the UK, these striped ties initially meant belonging to a certain school, club, part of the military or government establishment. But later, being widespread in USA they lost its historical meaning, and changed the direction of the strips: the British ties stripes are from the left shoulder down, and in the USA - from the right down. If you're wearing a striped tie in United Kingdom, be sure not to pretend to a membership in some elite club: you could be understood incorrectly. Striped tie is perfect for American-style suits and preppy style looks, such as a blue blazer or suit herringbone, but of course it is not limited in its combinability.
Grenadine - is a special silk with free weave, thanks to which the tie gets a kind of "loose" structure, successfully contrasting with smooth cloth suits and shirts, as well as imparting the massiveness of the knot. Grenadine ties are usually plain, so combining them with the rest of the clothing becomes more easier. Many consider a dark blue grenadine tie one of the most versatile and essential items in the wardrobe.
Another classic element of preppy style. Knitted ties differ from usual with its design: in fact it is a tube of silk or wool, with sewn ends, unlined and typically the same width throughout its length. This tie is less formal than the usual silk, it is not suitable for a business meeting, but is ideal as a daily casual-tie.
Having become the happy owner of a hand-crafted tie, custom-made in BESPOKE Atelier, do not forget about the rules of care.
First, you should untie it after wearing. If you leave the tie knotted, deep folds may appear, from which it will be difficult to get rid of. Untied even for night time it will smooth out again, thanks to the interlining layer made of natural wool.
Second, if your tie was stained, you should bring it to the dry cleaners. Do not try to wash it, silk fabrics is a very delicate material.
Third, untie a tie correctly: without pulling the narrow end, and in reverse order to tying - not to stretch the wool lining and stitching.