Bespoke

Bespoke - it is not just high-quality men's clothing, but some kind of visit card that tells about the taste of the owner, a significant attribute of his status.
Bespoke Atelier - is a project aimed to embody the most sophisticated wishes of our customers, and targeted to create a unique and highly personalized product, providing a considerable proportion of handmade details.
Skillfully combining classical traditions, advanced technologies andhigh quality materials, the tailors of Sastreria Mallorca create for you garments of a status category "Bespoke" - suits, coats, jackets, pants, vests, shirts and ties trimmed manually or completely handmade.


History of Bespoke

Bespoke Tailoring, as we know it today, is the accumulation of many centuries of dedication to the craft of sewing, stitching, cutting and imitating the human form in fabrics. Bespoke tailoring developed slowly but steadily throughout Europe between the 12th and 14th Century. Before the birth of tailoring, clothes were seen purely as functional objects, to cover the body and protect it from the elements. As the Renaissance transformed the world of arts and culture, tailoring became a way to accentuate the human form and contributed to what is widely considered to have been the ‘rebirth of humanism’. Medieval uniforms, which had typically been made from a single piece of cloth, were now ‘tailored’ so that they were tighter and shorter in an attempt to show off the contours of the human body. Tailors changed the way people perceived clothes, they were no longer viewed merely as ‘practical necessities’, but as a form of expression and objects of desire. Tailoring skills became increasingly sought after and created the market of tailoring as we know it today. It was also the beginning of what we now refer to as fashion.

Master Tailors soon became solely responsible for providing the majority of their local society’s clothing needs and their empowered role became a sought after vocation. As industry and society boomed, towns grew into powerful cities where fashion was used to portray status and wealth. Countries such as Italy, Spain and France were considered fashion ‘hubs’ and men would travel from all over Europe to have their clothes personally tailored by the very best craftsmen. During the 17th Century fashion was still very much influenced by royalty. King Louis XIV reigned from 1643 to 1715 and Paris became the place for the latest and greatest fashion. It was during this period that styles began to change and masculine attire started to become main-stream. Feminine doublets and cloaks, which had been standard dress code since the 14th Century, were being replaced with masculine fitted coats, vests and trousers, which were relics of what we now perceive to be modern fashion.

Whilst the French reviled in overly flamboyant, decorative silks and pastel satins, which were derived from the French courts, the English were taking a far more practical approach. In fact, by the 19th Century, glossy black coats and iconic English stovepipe hats and umbrellas were standard elements of mainstream English fashion. The silhouette of the modern English gentleman was born.

The masculine design and subtle detailing of English tailors soon dominated European fashion and London was commonly thought of as the un-official capital of it all. English designed business attire became increasingly popular and the Industrial Revolution further boosted demand. London tailors focused heavily on ‘fit’ and moved away from over the top decoration and fabrics. This emphasis on ‘fit’, and the quest to mimic and improve the human form, meant that good English tailors were highly regarded as the industry’s leaders. English tailors were responsible for promoting the idea of simplicity, and discrete fashion. Perfection was in the cut of the cloth and this would become the holy grail of modern fashion.

Savile Row, in Mayfair, London, was built between 1731 and 1735 and was named after Lady Dorothy Savile, the wife of the 3rd Earl of Burlington. It was originally the used to house British military officers and their wives, however, as British gentry became increasingly concerned with their appearance, Beau Brummell (the epitome of the well-dressed man) patronised the tailors of Savile Row and it started to be referred to as the “golden mile of tailoring”. In fact, it was Savile Row tailors that coined the term; ”bespoke”, when they described cloth as being “spoken for” by an individual customer.  Modern-day bespoke tailoring still utilises traditional techniques and, despite advancements in technology, is still seen as a highly-skilled art form as opposed to an exact science. In a world where mass-production and ready-made clothing dominates the world of fashion, the tailor’s role has become increasingly essential.

Bespoke technology

Bespoke tailoring is reasonably considered to be the top of the tailors skill. The garments tailoring process require highly qualified master. In addition, it is very laborious - the proportion of manual working exceeds 70% of the total process. For example, to create a single suit it requires about 60 hours.

Among the main features of the traditional technology Bespoke should note the following:

Patterns are created individually for each customer based on more than 20 individual measurements, considering all the features of its shape. With each new order re-measurements are taken to refine the patterns. Usually we store patterns of our customers within three years. Hand-cut. All the details of the future garment are cut by hand. In particular, it provides pattern matching for fabrics with stripes or checks. Sewing by hand. The garment is assembled by hand without the use of adhesive materials. To give a shape to the jacket are used several layers of interlining - full hand canvas, which consists of horsehair, cotton and linen. These fabric layers are joined together manually, that provides a lightweight,flexible and strong construction. Whereby the suit "breathes" and fits perfectly to the lines of the figure without deforming. This effect can not be achieved by using fusing canvas.
With the help of special pads and iron, the tailor shapes the jackets areas in accordance with the features of forms of customer´s breast, shoulders, abdomen and hand position. Shoulder pads are made by hand, taking into account the individual shape of the customer's shoulders and the requirements of the chosen model. Cotton interlining, lined and fixed manually provides a clear line of the bottom of a jacket and sleeves.
The sleeve is attached by hand, which ensures its strength and provides elasticity of the armholes as the shoulder girdle is the most active part of a jacket. The edge of front parts and lapels is sewn manually so that the break line of lapel and collar forms a soft "wave" without a break. The collar made by hand, is one of the important elements of a jacket, which is responsible for the balance of the jacket during its wearing.
The lining is attached manually over all parts of a jacket to ensure its mobility and maximum comfort of the client to wear a jacket. Hand-crafted buttonhole and butoniere - are one of the most critical steps in jacket tailoring. Such loops are a sign of noble birth of a suit that meets all the canons of tailoring craft. Buttons sewn manually forming a small and thin rack. Thus, the fastening area on which the buttons are sewn wouldn't be deformed.
Decorative pick stitching of lapel, collar, pockets are considered to be mandatory elements of hand finishing, particularly chic that always markedly distinguishes the owner of expensive high-quality suit. Original and unique design of the jacket lining: lining often made of silk with a print and finished with bright edging and pick stitching Special functional element of the lining of jackets, protecting the armholes against of abrasion while wearing
Special loop, made on the back side of lapel below the butoniere hole, for butoniere fixing. Planck and some other parts of shirts also are made out and finished by hand. Collar and cuffs interlining are made of cotton and fixed by hand, that helps to avoid deformation while washing. The initials of the client, embroidered by hand - a traditional element of personalization of the garment, made to order.
Match pattern of fabric detail on the suit - an obligatory condition of high quality. Folds on the trousers waistband lining is made individually for each client, provides comfortable movement and an additional volume for a better fit of the waistband to the body. Strap on the waistband made by the clients request, allows you to adjust the length of the waistband, which is especially comfortable for customers who experience frequent changes in weight.
Manufacturing of a suit from start to finish by a single craftsman. He takes measurements from the client, advises on the selection of fabrics and the model, makes the patterns, assembles and sew the suit, carries out the fitting and changes in the process of manufacturing. He is responsible for the final result.

Suit, jacket, vest, pants, shirt or coat - Bespoke - will differ a great fit, excellent appearance and unique sense of comfort and pleasure of wearing.

Suits

World practice implies three ways of manufacturing men's clothing: Bespoke, Made to measure (MTM) and Ready to wear (RTW).

The first method - Bespoke - the most time consuming and expensive (the cost of the suit tailoring in US and Europe is approximately $ 1800-3500), involves the creation of a garment for a particular client, "from scratch." This method, as has been shown, provides a huge amount of manual work of highly skilled tailor. For example, for the first of several fittings the jacket / coat almost fully is just basted: all parts of the base fabric baste together manually in order to be able to provide the precision cut and to adjust the jacket / coat on the figure of the client. The result is a unique and highly personalized garment, it looks natural, at the same time comfortable and perfectly fitted on the figure, visually concealing its shortcomings and emphasizing the dignities.

The second way - Made to measure (MTM) - the basic principle of work for the majority of atelier, and many clothing manufacturers "to the measure." In this method, within the available patterns developed for the standard sizes, is chosen the most suitable to the client and small adjustments are made. Often such things produces the effect of mild imbalance and blurred lines, evidence of excess allowances to adjust inside (eg shoulders).

In framework of the Bespoke and MTM methods are used traditional "full-canvas" / "half-canvas" and "fused" technologies, and combinations thereof.
Canvassing means making the interlining of the chest piece of jacket / coat of several layers of fabric held together with hundreds of hand stitches. Depending on the jacket / coat model, the thickness of chest interlining may consist of various combinations of different materials etc. Thanks to this "carcass" the jacket / coat will look naturally and its stable form will not be lost up to 20 years of wearing (with proper care).
The essence of "fused" technology is the use of interlining materials with adhesive surface. In this case, the manufacturing process significantly reduces the cost. The result is acceptable, but however, with time the adhesive will be destructed and the adhesion between the facing and the interlining layer will be lost. Jacket will lose its shape.

The third way - Ready to wear (RTW) - is the production of ready-made garments on an industrial scale for standard sizes.

In BESPOKE Atelier we follow the Bespoke method and apply full-canvass/half-canvass technology, if other is not requested by the customer, for example, in order to reduce the cost of the work.

At all stages of your jacket / coat creating you are the designer: you make your choice of hundreds of fabrics samples and dozens of cutting elements, of all possible for planned garment model. You choose the shape of the shoulder - hard or natural, lapels style, determine the vent styles, whether it would be single-breasted or double-breasted, the buttons quantity and even colour of silk threads for hand-crafted buttonholes. You define the concept of decorative trim lining and choose the form of the monogram of your initials, which will also be embroidered by hand.

When sewing pants you can also choose from a variety of options in accordance with the style of the model: the presence or absence of the lining, the presence and number of pleats and pockets, shape of belt loops, trouser cuffs, special side adjusters on the waistband - good for those customers, whose weight often varies. And much more.

At BESPOKE Atelier we place above all else your personality and style, embodying them in high quality and durable items of clothing.

Shirts

Combining the traditions of tailor's art and modern technology, tailors of BESPOKE Atelier create for you truly unique shirts while you yourself are the designer at all stages.

First of all, we take 25 of your personal measurements. This means that the shirt will have a perfect fit for your figure, providing elegant appearance and compliance with the rules of etiquette, as well as the comfort of motion. Further, if necessary, together with the stylist, we select the fabrics and accessories, form of collars and cuffs and draw the sketch of your future shirt so that it is naturally integrated into your personal style and your existing wardrobe.

Creating your unique shirt, you can choose from fourteen variants of collar styles and nine styles of cuffs. You determine the number of manual finishes, for example, pichstitching of collar, cuffs and shoulders. You decide whether buttonholes will be made by machine or hand-crafted for more sophisticated look. You choose the font and the colour of your initials, embroidered by hand on the cuff or on the chest.

At BESPOKE Atelier we cooperate with manufacturers of high quality fabrics of England and Italy. We offer a wide selection of fabrics available to order from the catalogues of manufacturers.

Your unlimited design possibilities and our professional experience - a shirt, tailored by BESPOKE Atelier - is always an excellent choice!

Accessories

Often a pocket square put in a breast pocket of a jacket with exquisite casualness, fundamentally changes the concept of the whole look!

At BESPOKE Atelier we give a special importance to accessories. Therefore, we offer you the tailoring of all kinds of ties and pocket squares.





Classic modern tie, most likely originates from Cravath, cravat, which was worn by Croatian soldiers during the Thirty Years' War. After the victory over the Turkish janissaries French King Louis XIII invited Croatian soldiers to him to the court for the award. Louis noticed not only the courage and bravery of soldiers, but also the colourful scarves, which they tied around the neck, and immediately introduced this to his extensive wardrobe. But really popular the tie made his heir Louis XIV, who had even got a special servant - cravatier, involved in caring for scarves. At the beginning of the XVIII century, the neck scarves are particularly popular - the wellknown dandy Beau Brummell (responsible for many innovations in men's suit, for example, long pants) could spend a few hours on the tying of cravat, and in 1818 It was published «Neckclothiana», a book with illustrations of different methods of tying neckerchief.

Tie in its modern sense appeared on the wave of the industrial revolution. At the same time he became noticeably longer and narrower, as a consequence, it has become easier to tie. Around the same time appeared and striped ties with regimental colors as a part of the dress uniform of the British Army, and known for their eccentricity members of the British universities rowing clubs began to tie around the neck striped tapes of the club hats. The final form of the modern tie acquired in 1924 with the invention of an American tailor Jesse Langsdorf.

Patented by Jesse Lengsdorf tie was a three strips of fabric sewn at an angle of 45 degrees to avoid twisting and ensure a soft drape. Most modern ties consist of a single layer of silk double-folded and cross-linked at the back (a so-called 3-fold). Inside of this silk "envelope" is sewn a special wool lining. It is necessary to hold the shape of the tie and avoid wrinkling, as well as to give the weight and thickness of silk.

The average length of a standard tie is 132 - 147 cm. Classical width is still considered to be 7 - 9 cm. However, the length, width and thickness of tie hand-crafted to order may vary depending on complexion of the owner. For example, for tall and obese men it´s more preferred a longer (in the tied form it must touch the edge of the belt) and slightly wider tie. On a such kind of a tie will look more beneficial the voluminous nodes like Windsor, Balthus or Hannover. At the same time, the size of all the elements of a suit must be in harmony - the width of the tie should be equal to the width of the lapels.

However, this is not the only kind of tie: now is becoming popular unlined ties, folded of six or seven layers of silk (6- and 7-fold). In this case, the desired weight and thickness are achieved not by lining, but by the number of folds of fabric. Tailoring of these ties is a totally fine hand craft, besides they take a lot of fabric, therefore, they are suitable. Such multi-layered ties get a nice size and unit, but because of absence of lining wrinkle a lot. To distinguish this from an ordinary tie it's enough just to unbutton it and count its folds.

Edging - fabric on the reverse side of the tie, covering the lining - usually made of silk of another colour, but sometimes from the same material as the tie itself. On the expensive ones, the border is sewn by hand, it gives a soft, voluminous, but sometimes slightly uneven edge.

The seam on the reverse side of the highquality tie must be made manually and to be moving. With this tie obtains the necessary elasticity and shape.

The last important detail on the reverse side of the tie - a loop for the narrow end. This loop is needed to prevent the narrow end of the tie from coming out ahead. However, there is nothing wrong: in bespoke ties the narrow end may be made of contrast material - in this case, is not a sin if it will be visible when you unbutton his jacket.



OTHER TRADITIONAL NECKTIES

Throughout its history, ties were made of a variety of materials with a variety of designs and patterns. At 1970 ties with lapels became very wide, and patterns - defiantly bright, in 1980 there were tight leather ties still loved by rock stars, but a few key species of ties constantly stay a popular supplement to the corresponding classical, casual and ceremonial looks.

Ascot tie

The name to this tie was given by the famous English racecourse, located in the small town of Ascot, where since the beginning of the 18th century began to take place the Royal racing. Among of other things, the Royal racing always have a particular code. In Europe Ascot tie was widespread in the late 19th century, when the frock coats and morning suits became fashion.
In the first decades of the 20th century it became part of the casual wear and even sportswear. The Duke of Windsor, after whom is named the same name node, loved to play golf in such tie.
Later, he was popular among British youth since the mid-1960s until the mid-1970s, in the era "Psychedelic movement." In particular, it carried many rock musicians of those years.
Currently Ascot tie is worn both complementing the casual look, and as a indispensable attribute of male ceremonial and wedding suits.
Tie Plastron

In fact, it is the "twin" of Ascot tie, but it came from France. The tie was originally a chest insert or a starched shirt front. To this day, the plastron plays an important role among the ties, especially in the solemn and elegant men's evening dress. Lush plastron is usually worn under the vest, and often of the same fabric. Furthermore, as Ascot (in its solemn variant) the  plastron is worn stapled with a pearl head pin.  Most often it is made of heavy silver-gray silk duchesse. Riders usually wear plastron of white pique. It's safe to say that this is one of the oldest kinds of men's ties, has come down to us virtually unchanged.
Bow tie

In the early 19th century, it was a neck scarf, the ends of which were tied in form of butterfly (in French "a la papillon"). Its modern look bowtie gained in 1904 at the time of opera J.Puccini "Madame Butterfly", when all the musicians of the orchestra had a bow knotted tie.
MATERIALS

Most ties are made of silk of different weaving. Silk tie - the most traditional and universal, but not the only kind. They make ties of wool challis, tweed, linen and cotton. It should be be kept in mind it's seasonal fabrics: wool ties should be reserved for the autumn and winter, and in summer you can show off tie of seersucker. Remember that a good tie adds not only colour but also the texture to the look.
ANCIENT MADDER

It is classic British ties with printed pattern, usually inflicted with natural dyes on silk treated with gum arabic. Due to such technology colors are restrained, and soft and rough texture. Pattern of ancient-madder-ties - usually "cucumbers" or traditional geometric prints that can be imposed as a rule manually. Ancient madder goes well with tweed jacket and flannels.
REPP STRIPED TIE

The stripes on this tie are arranged in accordance with a woven fabric - at an angle of 45 degrees. In the UK, these striped ties initially meant belonging to a certain school, club, part of the military or government establishment. But later, being widespread in USA they lost its historical meaning, and changed the direction of the strips: the British ties stripes are from the left shoulder down, and in the USA - from the right down. If you're wearing a striped tie in United Kingdom, be sure not to pretend to a membership in some elite club: you could be understood incorrectly. Striped tie is perfect for American-style suits and preppy style looks, such as a blue blazer or suit herringbone, but of course it is not limited in its combinability.
GRENADINE TIES

Grenadine - is a special silk with free weave, thanks to which the tie gets a kind of "loose" structure, successfully contrasting with smooth cloth suits and shirts, as well as imparting the massiveness of the knot. Grenadine ties are usually plain, so combining them with the rest of the clothing becomes more easier. Many consider a dark blue grenadine tie one of the most versatile and essential items in the wardrobe.
KNITTED TIE

Another classic element of preppy style. Knitted ties differ from usual with its design: in fact it is a tube of silk or wool, with sewn ends, unlined and typically the same width throughout its length. This tie is less formal than the usual silk, it is not suitable for a business meeting, but is ideal as a daily casual-tie.
Having become the happy owner of a hand-crafted tie, custom-made in BESPOKE Atelier, do not forget about the rules of care.

First, you should untie it after wearing. If you leave the tie knotted, deep folds may appear, from which it will be difficult to get rid of. Untied even for night time it will smooth out again, thanks to the interlining layer made of natural wool.

Second, if your tie was stained, you should bring it to the dry cleaners. Do not try to wash it, silk fabrics is a very delicate material.

Third, untie a tie correctly: without pulling the narrow end, and in reverse order to tying - not to stretch the wool lining and stitching.